Saturday, January 21, 2017

Orientalism & Art Deco: Week 3

Orientalist 1910-1919

The corset were not be a fashion trend anymore. The garments and silhouette became loose. The waistline were high below the bust, it was influenced by Empire or Directoire styles of the early 19th century. The Couture was the tool for showing wealth in order to get the privilege and appreciation as a higher position.

More radical styles like the hobble skirt and the lampshade skirt each enjoyed their moment in the sun. The Edwardians became more playful and innovative, taking an interest in asymmetrical draping techniques. Considerably less boning was used in bodices and boning was now solely for supporting the shape as opposed to changing it. Suits were fashionable for daywear and walking was eased due to a really big fashion happening – the skirt hem rose to the ankle.
Hobble Skirt
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Skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle.

Lamp Shade dress by Paul Poiret

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The First World War provoked yet another fashion – skirts that rose to well above the ankle. Bodices tended to lean towards the higher waist and skirts were full and tiered. Other popular fancies were bat-wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts.
Wool and linen walking suits were appreciated for their practicality. Asymmetrical designs were featured in bodices and skirts and preferred fabrics were satin, taffeta, chiffon and lightweight silks, with washable cottons to ease hot summers. Early Art Deco inspired prints were seen in the post war years. The automobile achieved status, so driving clothes were developed to protect against dust, including the aptly named duster, a long, lightweight coat. Hats were veiled to keep the complexion smudge free.
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Paul Poiret
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Paul Poiret was the main role that influence the fashion style in this period. Poiret loved bright colour and introduced brilliant hues whilst the sweet pea colours of the Edwardian era were still very fashionable. He had been influenced by the Ballets Russes and in 1913 he produced exotic designs based on oriental harem pants. His lampshade tunic and turbans were all in vibrant glowing shimmering colours, with beaded embellishment.

 To complete the outfits there were exotic Eastern inspired jewelled slippers which drew together Orientalism in the outfit.

Denise Poiret in Poiret's 'Faune' ensemble

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Fur was a symbol of Orientalism and appeared on all sorts of garments from outerwear to lingerie as an edging trim.
Cloche hats, fur edgings on coats and long columnar dresses worn by Poiret's models.
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Art Deco 1920-1929

Art deco was influenced by Egyptian, African Art, Cubism, Fauvism, Expressionism, and European Purism. The "Garconne Look" was the popular style that had been inspired in this period. Garçonne means boyish style look that made for woman to wear.
Signature look in this period are:
Cloche Hat
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Cigarettes in long holder
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Tubular Dress
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Plucked Eyebrow
The make-up details: The eyes were the window to the soul, and the actresses main expressive tool were huge eyes, rimmed with kohl.  The face, in contrast, was whiter than white, and the lips blood red.
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Hanging Earrings
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The silhouette of Art Deco was column which the outline was straight down from shoulder to the hemline. This silhouette caused by the outfit shape like curveless dresses with bust flattening brassieres. The waist completely disappeared, and belts were worn around the hips.

Here is some video about Art Deco's Period Fashion

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