Orientalism & Art Deco: Week 3

Orientalist 1910-1919

The corset were not be a fashion trend anymore. The garments and silhouette became loose. The waistline were high below the bust, it was influenced by Empire or Directoire styles of the early 19th century. The Couture was the tool for showing wealth in order to get the privilege and appreciation as a higher position.

More radical styles like the hobble skirt and the lampshade skirt each enjoyed their moment in the sun. The Edwardians became more playful and innovative, taking an interest in asymmetrical draping techniques. Considerably less boning was used in bodices and boning was now solely for supporting the shape as opposed to changing it. Suits were fashionable for daywear and walking was eased due to a really big fashion happening – the skirt hem rose to the ankle.
Hobble Skirt

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Skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle.

Lamp Shade dress by Paul Poiret

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The First World War provoked yet another fashion – skirts that rose to well above the ankle. Bodices tended to lean towards the higher waist and skirts were full and tiered. Other popular fancies were bat-wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts.

Wool and linen walking suits were appreciated for their practicality. Asymmetrical designs were featured in bodices and skirts and preferred fabrics were satin, taffeta, chiffon and lightweight silks, with washable cottons to ease hot summers. Early Art Deco inspired prints were seen in the post war years. The automobile achieved status, so driving clothes were developed to protect against dust, including the aptly named duster, a long, lightweight coat. Hats were veiled to keep the complexion smudge free.

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Paul Poiret

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Paul Poiret was the main role that influence the fashion style in this period. Poiret loved bright colour and introduced brilliant hues whilst the sweet pea colours of the Edwardian era were still very fashionable. He had been influenced by the Ballets Russes and in 1913 he produced exotic designs based on oriental harem pants. His lampshade tunic and turbans were all in vibrant glowing shimmering colours, with beaded embellishment.

 To complete the outfits there were exotic Eastern inspired jewelled slippers which drew together Orientalism in the outfit.

Denise Poiret in Poiret's 'Faune' ensemble

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Fur was a symbol of Orientalism and appeared on all sorts of garments from outerwear to lingerie as an edging trim.
Cloche hats, fur edgings on coats and long columnar dresses worn by Poiret's models.

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Art Deco 1920-1929

Art deco was influenced by Egyptian, African Art, Cubism, Fauvism, Expressionism, and European Purism. The "Garconne Look" was the popular style that had been inspired in this period. Garçonne means boyish style look that made for woman to wear.

Signature look in this period are:

Cloche Hat

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Cigarettes in long holder

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Tubular Dress

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Plucked Eyebrow
The make-up details: The eyes were the window to the soul, and the actresses main expressive tool were huge eyes, rimmed with kohl.  The face, in contrast, was whiter than white, and the lips blood red.

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Hanging Earrings

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The silhouette of Art Deco was column which the outline was straight down from shoulder to the hemline. This silhouette caused by the outfit shape like curveless dresses with bust flattening brassieres. The waist completely disappeared, and belts were worn around the hips.

Here is some video about Art Deco's Period Fashion

Silhouette: Week 2

Edwardian Period

1900-1909

In this period, Silhouette introduced in S-bend and Hourglass. What is Silhouette meaning in the term of Fashion? It's the outline or contour in solid black on white background.
S-bend was considered as a majority silhouette in Edwardian era.

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S-bend silhouette was created by the shape of corsets which was tightened from the waist to the abdomen, pushing the bust forward, and created a rounded hipline.

This style was affected because of the woman existence in man workplace.

S-bend silhouette

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Details: The corset start from the bust until hipline, lacing at the sides, and ruffles on the neckline.

The cinch at the waist, full at the bottom and the top until the shoulders indicate the Hourglass Silhouette in this decade.
Men and women used to changes enormous amount of clothes in a day for certain occasion. The result, they wear intricate outfits design with elaborate details.


Hourglass Silhouette

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Sleeves such as Leg-O-Mutton, Puff, Bishop, Flare, and decoration like lace, braids, trimming, embroidery, were not rare.

Hourglass Silhouette in Modern Fashion

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The Principle: Define an Hourglass Silhouette

Christian Dior (1905 to 1957)

Then: After the severe restrictions of World War II, Christian Dior single-handedly brought sexy back with extravagant, ultra feminine designs. Using yards of silk and taffeta in boned and corseted bodices and voluminous skirts, the Frenchman maximized the curves of women, hidden for so long under somber, conservative dresses. Christened “the New Look” by Harper’s Bazaar in 1947, the silhouette was controversial for confining women to corsets again. Yet women were captivated by the voluptuous fashion. “His style was very ladylike,” says George Simonton, a professor of fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York City. “He put women on pedestals.”
The New Look by Christian Dior

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Christian Dior Fall 2014 Haute Couture

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Now: Anything belted, cinched, or nipped at the waist over a dramatically full skirt will echo the Dior look, a style that is surprisingly slimming. “The silhouette fools the eye with its shaping and construction,” notes Simonton. Try a fitted jacket paired with a flouncy skirt or even a 50s-style dress.
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Fashion details: Week 1

Fashion detail represent the every each of the part that we wear from the head to toe, everything that applicated in the apparels. It includes:

Embroidery

The handicraft that put the thread, yarn, pearl, beads, quills, or sequins together in order to make shape and design on the fabric

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Neckline

The outline or style of the clothes shape around the neck part.

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Waistline

The shape around the waist.

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Hemline

The line of the edge of the lower part of clothes such as dress, skirt, coat, etc which are measured from the ground.

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Seams
In order to join fabrics together, it has to be sewed and it produced line which is called seams.

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Gathers
The folds and gathers of garments parallelly sewn on the edge of the fabric, can be attached with another garment.

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Pleats
The garment straightly folded in multiple times.

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Tucks
Folded pushed garment create lines for design.

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Collars
Design on the part of the neck of the outfit.

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Cuffs
Layer in the edge of the sleeve garments.

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Pockets
An extra layer on the clothes, the purpose is for holding some little stuff that we can keep in the pocket. Sometimes can be used as design.

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Buttons
A small fastener that sewed on the cloth to connect with the other cloth.

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Bows
Garment that tied like a ribbon.

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Beads

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Sequins

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Color
The color of the fabric or the materials that attached on the fabric.

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Texture
The surface that we can feel when we touch it.
Either it is smooth, rough, stretchy, rubbery, etc.

Silhouette
The outline shape of the outfit. Since it's a 3D form, the outline should be seen from every angle.

and there's more variety of fashion details we cannot name since there's abundant materials that designer use to design the clothes. Fashion details is very important for making clothes, if there's no fashion details there will be no clothes. In every clothes, it contains fashion details such as color, silhouette. Clothes are distinguished by the shape of its silhouette.

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In order to make the clothes looks modified, designed and subjectively look great for people who are wearing it, the designer must have a sense and skill of applying the fashion details in the right way. To apply the fashion details correctly, designer has to know who and what for they make the clothes. Designer must understand the fashion taste of the viewer or customer, what they are requested, what kind of details they want.
Every people have their own character of styling. Example:
Hipster
Tove lo is a singer who has her own character in fashion. If we observe more about her style, she is more into hipster. The sense of hipster vibe can be felt from her fashion and art work such as music, video. The hipster style can be noticed from the dark color of the clothing she wear, the pierced on her nose, black nail polish, the style of the rings, the boots, those factors that create the grunge and brave feeling.

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Bohemian
This style is favorite style of Vanessa Hudgens. She likes to wear the long dress with the bohemian pattern. Something loose with the fringe. We can tell it's bohemian from the color of the outfit she wear, it's more to summer style and mostly warm color.

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Fashion details have been applied since a long time ago by our ancestors. It developed time by time until today, and nowadays the fashion all are regenerated from the past generations. All of the outfits that we wear in 21st century are represent the past fashion era that inspired us to create the new fashion style for today. The difference between this modern era and past era is the technology of making the pattern, colors, etc.
Example:
The Baroque Era Outfit

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The fashion details from Baroque era applicated to the modern era, e.g. pearls, motif, silhouette

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The transformation of fashion details application is influenced by the culture, architecture, needs, habits, religion, and politics. In the past era, like rococo, they eager to wear something wide, big and extravagant because of their luxurious lifestyle which is influenced by the iconic fashion and political figure of France, Marie Antoinette. Now, people are more likely to wear something simple, comfortable, and functional because of the technologies improvement. So as to fulfill the people outfit's demand, the minimalist style is introduced in this new decade

Rococo

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Minimalist

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Fashion Vocabulary

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Picture source:

Wilcox, Claire., and Mendes, Valerie. Modern Fashion in Detail. V&A Publication, 1991.